Lost and Found in Chinatown
It is said that just about anyone can get lost and anything can be found in Bangkok’s Chinatown. The rumor may be true. Although its edges reach beyond any defined boundaries, from Triphet road to the west and the Hualomphong station to the east, Chareon Krung (New Road) to the north and the Chao Praya River to the south, The heart of the district is home to everything from historic buildings, and tea houses, to ornate temples, traditional medicine shops, food galore and the narrowest lanes imaginable. The area is so crowded with people, stores and items for sale that a walking tour is the only reasonable way to visit. In Chinatown there is something to see in every lane and street corner, day or night.
The area, better known as Sampaeng to the Thais, has a long history that begins prior to the city’s founding. When the first king of the Chakri Dynasty chose the area as his new capital, it was inhabited by a community of Chinese traders. In 1782 the merchants were moved just east of the ‘island’ of Rattanakosin (where the Grand Palace and the other major Thai monuments stand today). During that time, narrow Sampaeng Lane was Chinatown’s main thoroughfare. In 1902, locals requested a larger road from the king, resulting in the broad, Yaowarat Road, now the central east-west thoroughfare of the district.
While there is much to see, buy and do in Chinatown, it is the atmosphere of the place that is most delightful. Touring the area in one trip – or even several – is not possible. To enjoy this maze of lanes, alleys and avenues, just pick a starting point and begin to wander until you’ve tired, then head back another day for more meandering.
Wat Traimit
My wander began off the MRT underground found at the eastern edge of the district, near Bangkok’s main train station. Heading up Chareon Krung road, my first stop was Wat Traimit. Looking much like the majority of Thai style temples within the city, Wat Traimit’s claim to fame is that it is home to the world’s largest solid gold Buddha. This 15 foot tall effigy weighs five and a half tons and is said to be worth approximately 14 million US dollars. It was cast in Thailand’s first capital, Sukhothai, during the 13th century.
The third Chakri king had the statue, (then covered in plaster and not yet known to be made of gold), moved to Bangkok and installed in a temple near the river. In 1955 the image was again moved to its current location. During the move it fell from a crane. A piece of the plaster was accidentally broken off and revealed the gold beneath, setting off a wave of plaster smashing throughout the kingdom in search of more hidden treasure.
Wat Traimit is most definitely a tourist attraction and numerous vendors line up under large umbrellas selling a mix of religious paraphernalia and chintzy souvenirs within the temple compound. There is a modest fee of 20 baht for all non-Thai visitors forGolden Buddha viewing.
Today that image sits in a small cruciform viharn or assembly hall. After passing the vendors I climbed a set of stairs to reach the temple’s surrounding terrace where numerous, large ceramic pots and bronze bells line its eastern edge. Seven small boxes that look much like Las Vegas-styled, one-armed bandits - complete with flashing lights and coin slots – are lined up for the faithful and the curious to have their fortunes mechanically told. Within each box is a small statue of the Buddha in various poses representing different days of the week. In addition are the Hindu god Brahma and the Chinese goddess of mercy, Kwan Yin. The English translation next to each box’s coin slot reads: “Risk Merit Making.” It sounded a bit threatening but I decided to give it a whirl with a five baht coin. The lights began spinning past number after number, eventually landing slowly on number seven. Beneath each holy bandit sit many small cubbies, each containing a pile of prophecies under their respective numeral. Written in Thai, Chinese and English, the messages lets you know if your money was worth the spiritual gamble.
My risky merit said, “No Sorrow. Family and friends are enjoyable but your soul seems unhappily restless. Recommend making some merits and donations. Get rid of greed and you shall gain peace of mind. Good luck approaching. Lost items recovered. Affectionate loving care interchanged.” Guess it was a good gamble.
Feeling decidedly confident, I enter the viharn along with an extended family of camera-toting Sikhs. The gleaming Buddha sits with contemplative gaze, looking tenderly over his visitors under sleeping eyelids. He has the broad shoulders, narrow head and beak-like nose typical of a Sukhothai style Buddha. He is very large and yes, very gold.
The small viharn also houses a number of smaller images covered in bits of gold leaf affixed by the faithful. Tourists move in and out of the space, some offering their wai of respect and others capturing photos of themselves and family members before the great golden icon. A vendor to one side sells even more tourist flotsam and religious objects like spiritual amulets, hand-sized elephants covered in tacky bits of mirror, post cards, and resin carved figurines that can be found in perhaps every single tourist site in the kingdom.
Winding Lanes
Following my Golden gazing, I headed off to the winding streets and lanes for a walk and a meal. I think I both love and hate the narrow alleys that criss-cross Chinatown. They are hot and crowded, plied by everything from motorcycles to grandmas, beggars to food vendors pushing carts of ice or fruit, noodles or nuts. The smells of peppercorn, star anise, medicinal herbs and the ubiquitous aromas of incense crowd the air in the same manner of contrast and congestion as the lanes themselves.
I wandered down Trok Itsaranuphap, which connects Yaoworat Rd. with the rice warehouses close to river’s edge. Trok Itsaranuphap is one of Chinatown’s main market lanes. This obstructed, atmospheric alley is lined with food vendors and small shop houses through which motorcycles bungeed to the gills with everything from fancy silver high-heeled shoes to teddy bears, tissues to toilet brushes plunge back and forth from riverside warehouses to the bulk markets of Sampaeng lane.
Medicinal plant stalls, noodle stands, and rice houses share narrow spaces in this crazy, crowded, and aromatic environment built of cobbled lanes and crumbling facades. Men move past, pushing carts loaded with brooms. Others trot to and from the river port pulling dollies piled high with boxes and bags of who knows what. Old women in their weekend’s best attire, nary a drop of sweat from their powdered brows walk slowly, escorted by grandchildren, while young and old alike sit on plastic stools nibbling fried rice, roasted duck, noodle soup or other small meals.
When I could stand the heat no longer, I settled at one rusty table inserted between a food stall and drink vendor. A meal of rice with stir-fried seafood, a bowl of freshly cooked shell fish and two small bottles of water prepared me for several hours of maneuvering through the heat-baked streets of midday.
100 year old Gold Shop
The entire district of Chinatown is known for its many gold sellers, but its most famous is Tang Toh Kang. Following my meal I made my way to this historic shop and heritage house found at the corner of Sampaeng Lane and Mangkon Road. Here I met Khun Chaikit Tantikarn, the Assistant Manager of Tang Toh Kang, and 4th generation heir to a family of successful gold makers.
Khun Chaikit’s great, great grandfather, Tang Toh Kang, emigrated from China more than 130 years ago with nothing but a bedroll. As a young man he initially worked in silver, carefully saving his money until he could increase his income by working in gold. Tang Toh Kang created jewelry in both precious metals as an employee for others before saving enough to venture out on his own. After ten years he opened a small shop where today’s six-storey heritage house now stands. Over the years his skill and reputation grew, eventually landing him work for the royal family.
Inspired by a royal emblem given to the family by King Rama VI, Tang Toh Kang’s heirs built an impressive home and storefront where the gold shop remains today. The emblem, a half bird-half human mythic creature called a Garuda, is Thailand’s royal and national symbol. This bold red beast, arms spread, talons held at the ready, can be seen on government buildings, banks and other companies in operation under royal appointment. At the personal discretion of the King, it may be given to businesses that have rendered significant charitable or economic services to the kingdom. Historically, the emblem indicated that a family and their products could be trusted.
The building itself is beautiful, with finely carved wood trim and sculpted stucco ornamentation on the ceilings from which hang ornate light fixtures. Tall windows look out onto Sampaeng’s bustling commerce and glass cases hold brilliant gold jewels and adornments for sale. The museum on the sixth floor houses a collection of old gold making equipment such as stamps, presses and metal stretchers, pots for liquid gold and numerous photos. This is also where the original Garuda can be found, hung above the stained glass windows that surround the bright space.
Dragon Lotus Temple
From Tang Toh Kang, I headed over to Wat Mangkon Kamalawat, also known as Wat Leng Noi Yee in Chinese. The temple was built during King Rama V, about 130-140 years ago. This rambling labyrinth, located just of Chareon Krung road, is in many ways, the heart of the Chinese community. It is one of the largest temples in Chinatown and it is here that important holidays and events such as Chinese New Year and the vegetarian festival are centered.
When you look up the word atmosphere in the dictionary it seems there should surely be a picture of this place! Wood carved lattice work, black lacquer doors and red cement posts hold up wood beamed roofs that fade into shadow. The entire compound is lit primarily by oil lanterns kept continually full by devotees. This low structure is home to countless Buddhist, Confucian and Taoist altars, all with well-worshipped effigies. The smell of possibly thousands of incense fills the air and the sounds of shaking fortune sticks and small children echo about the cavernous spaces.
Four enormous guardians stand at the entry portico of this partially open-air temple. The main altar contains three Buddha images where people line up with bags of paper offerings representing everything from money to clothing to home décor, to be burned for their ancestors in the compound’s large outdoor furnace. A traditional Chinese doctor has a small office in one wing of the temple, offering assistance to those with ailments both physical and spiritual. Nearby is a case of finely carved, wooden Thai Buddhas that seem oddly out of place, cohabitating as they do with the mustached and boldly posed ceramic forms of the Chinese gods scattered throughout the complex.
With the heat of the day beginning to permeate the city, I left Dragon Lotus Temple and made my way up Chareon Krung Road through crowds of traditional medicine vendors, amulet sellers and stalls of snack foods. Heading back toward the underground I stopped for a glass of iced ‘tea’ made of a green leafy vegetable said to be cooling to the innards on a hot day. Finally, I ended my meander with my favorite post-Chinatown treat: a foot massage.
In a day’s tour I had seen but a few of the district’s delights, yet as always, I enjoyed myself thoroughly. Chinatown is a place where getting lost may be one of the goals, as you discover countless curiosities in a rich, historic atmosphere, and where return trips are certain to offer entirely new experiences.
